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Blade Basics  

What you need to know to order the “right” blade for you


Part number

If you like the blade you have and want a direct replacement, the easiest way is to find the blade part number. If you don’t know the OEM number you can take your blade off and usually find it. Most OEM and aftermarket blades have a number stamped on them. Search for the number on our website or call us for a match.


If you don’t know the number, can’t find it or want a different blade, then we will need the measurements of the blade to get you what you want. The center hole diameter, length, offset, width and thickness are the common measurements. The center hole, length and offset are the most crucial. The center hole must be exact to fit on the spindle. The length, which is measured diagonally from cutting edge to cutting edge, needs to be the same otherwise the blades will either hit or leave a small streak of grass after you mow. Always hand turn your newly installed blades to be sure the blades fit correctly and don’t hit the deck or each other. The offset is used to step down the blade from the deck and create the correct airflow under the deck. If a blade with no or less offset is used, the blades could hit the deck or cut poorly. The width* and thickness of the blade can be increased in size to make the blade last longer. Be aware that the extra material adds extra weight and that weight could affect the performance of the deck. Be sure your engine has enough HP to rotate the blades at the required RPMs. Most commercial mowers can handle the wider, thicker blades but it is possible it could slow down the RPMs causing engine wear and poor cutting performance.

*If your spindle uses a blade saddle, your width will have to be exact.


Once you have the size of your blade figured out, you may have many styles of blades to pick from. Most blades are made in 5 different lifts; Low, Medium, High, Mulch and Toothed.

Low Lift

Low lift blades create less draft within the deck.  These blades are good when mowing in a sandy, rocky, or much thinner standings of grass.  Less draft prevents stir-up of sediments and debris, and doesn't force damp or wet grass to stick to the belly of the deck.

Medium Lift

Medium lift blades are generally for conditions where too thick of grass and loose soil are not a big factor.  Medium lift blades are sometimes called standard blades. Standard blades are what come on the deck from the factory.

High Lift

High lift blades create a larger draft of air within the deck.  The benefit of this is when cutting taller grass or types of grasses that are much more dense. The higher draft will eject the clippings and clean debris from under the deck quicker which is great for collection systems. Also, the grass is more susceptible to stand up before being cut, creating a more groomed or striped look.

 Mulch Lift

Mulching blades are designed to keep the grass circulating under the deck while cutting it into fine pieces that eventually fall to the ground. To work best, a mulching kit usually needs to be installed on the deck. Mulching blades are best when the grass is mowed frequently as it can leave clumps in tall grass. Mulching your grass keeps the nutrients in your yard.

Toothed Lift

Toothed blades are usually high lift blades with “teeth” or notches cut into the lift portion of the blade. These notches help circulate the grass to be cut multiple times before discharging the clippings. Toothed blades give you a nice combination of mulching and high lift blades. They also work great for fall leaf cleanup. Landscaper Pro carries both Copperhead and Gator blades.

Confused about the different types of Gator Blades? Here is a quick guide to help you get the right blade.

G3- Standard toothed blade 2 ½ inches or less in width and .204” or less in thickness. The air lift is about ¾ of an inch.

G5- Upgrade to the G3 for commercial decks. Blade is 3” wide and has an air lift of 1”. These blades are also fused with tungsten carbide on the cutting edge making the cutting edge last longer between sharpening.

G6- Upgrade to the G5 by increasing the blade thickness from .204” to .250” thick. 

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